Pest Control

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Council recognises that nature’s pests can sometimes pose health hazards to our community. To help you avoid this, we have provided guidance on some of the most common pests below:

Bees

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From early spring to early autumn, bee swarms will occur.
 
Bees can be collected by an apiarist if the swarm is readily accessible. If bees cannot be removed by an apiarist or there is hive, please contact a professional pest controller.
 
For advice on how to choose a pest control service, check out the Better Health Channel website.

Cockatoos

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Wild Sulphur-crested Cockatoos have become a nuisance by causing severe damage to homes and property. There are a number of reasons for this, including:

  • Hand-fed Cockatoos simply get bored when they don’t need to forage for their natural foods, so they begin to ‘chew’ on homes and property
  • Cockatoos, expecting to be fed by humans, become aggressive and pester people for food when they are hungry
  • Cockatoos are opening rubbish bins to forage for more food and spreading litter
  • Feeding Cockatoos is increasing their population numbers 

Feeding cockatoos

While human food will make Cockatoos sick and may kill them, wild birdseed mix encourages Cockatoos, King Parrots, and other wildlife to become dependent on humans for their survival and may cause nutrient deficiencies. Birds need to teach their young how to forage for a wide variety of natural foods. Feeding also allows for the easy spread of disease particularly from bird to bird (such as Psittacine Beak & Feather Disease). The other big problem with feeding cockatoos is that it encourages pests such as mice, rats and introduced bird species, as well as predators such as feral cats and foxes. The very best thing you can do for our Australian wildlife is to not feed them! 

Tips for Home-owners

  • Do not feed the Cockatoos, King Parrots or any other wildlife
  • Do not overfill your rubbish bin
  • Investigate the most appropriate bird exclusion products for your home such as:
  • o The installation of bird wire in strategic areas (such as balcony railings)
  • o Using screens to protect soft timber - consider the use of metal sheeting, or hanging netting or shadecloth from the eaves on rollers.
  • o Using ‘rolling perches’ (black poly-piping) to discourage Cockatoos from landing on light fittings, aerials, wiring and other fixtures.
  • o As Cockatoos tend to land on the high points of a house, such as roof peaks, consider the installation of commercially available “shock-perches” in these locations (these do not harm the birds)
  • All native wildlife in Victoria is protected under the Wildlife Act 1975 and it is an offence to injure or kill them. The Department of Environment, Land, Water and Planning (DELWP) is responsible for regulation of the conduct of persons engaged in activities concerning or related to wildlife.
  • The responsibility for managing wildlife on a property falls on the relevant landowner/ manager, but the landowner/ manager must apply for authorisation from DELWP to undertake activities concerning or related to the wildlife.

European Wasps

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The European wasp is about the same size as a honeybee with a lot less hair than a bee. They can be identified by their bright yellow legs and body, along with triangular markings on the abdomen and black antennae.
 

Unlike a bee, the European wasp can sting multiple times. The sting results in fiery pain and red swelling.

Where European Wasps live

European Wasps are found in large communal nests, usually only visible as a small entrance hole. The nests, made from chewed wood fibre, are normally located underground or in cavities within soil, walls, ceilings, logs or trees.

Worker wasps leave the nest in search of food, and are attracted to meats, sweet food and drink. Wasps may travel up to 500 metres from their nest to locate food.

How European Wasps breed

Colonies begin in spring with a single fertilised queen, who makes a nest with a single egg in each of a small number of cells. These eggs hatch into grub-like larvae that are tended by the queen for the few weeks it takes them to reach maturity. This first batch of workers takes over nest construction and rearing larvae, and the queen concentrates on egg-laying. The nest continues to be extended throughout summer.

Towards the end of summer, several larger cells are constructed, in which a new generation of queens develop. Males also develop, and mate with the queens outside the nest before they die.

In late autumn the original queen dies, and the new queens disperse to find suitable over-wintering sites before forming a new nest in spring. It is significant that in the warmer climate of Australia, one of the new queens may stay in the nest and begin laying eggs, without the usual winter hibernation period. Over several seasons, this can result in giant nests containing more than 100,000 wasps.

Toxicity level of European Wasps

European Wasps are more aggressive than bees and will attack when their nests are disturbed. Unlike bees, wasps can sting more than once, and do not die after stinging. The sting causes a burning pain and swelling. If stings are multiple, a more severe systemic reaction may occur.

In some individuals, wasp, bee and ant stings can cause an allergic reaction (anaphylaxis), but this is relatively uncommon. Effective treatment is available, which involves known bee/ant/wasp sting allergy sufferers carrying a special kit when outdoors. Immunotherapy or desensitisation is also available, and can reduce the severity of the allergy. Seven deaths over a twenty-year period attributed to wasp stings have been recorded in Australia, mainly amongst known allergy sufferers who were not carrying their preventative medicine with them.

First Aid for European Wasp sting(s)

A cold pack may be used to relieve the pain of the sting. If there is evidence of a more severe reaction or the sting victim is known to be allergic to wasp and bee venom, seek medical attention immediately.

Wasps are attracted to all types of sweet food and meat. A sting to the throat area after accidentally swallowing a wasp is extremely dangerous. That said, care must be taken not to drink directly from open bottles and cans during wasp season.

How to Discourage European Wasps

  • Making sure rubbish bins have tight fitting lids
  • Not leaving fallen fruit or food scraps lying around your yard
  • Covering exposed food, picnics and BBQs
  • Keeping your swimming pool covered when not in use
  • Avoid leaving uneaten pet food and dog bones outside
  • Keeping compost heaps and bins covered at all times
  • Covering bird baths or fish ponds or septic vent pipes with shade cloth or fine mesh
  • Removing ivy from the garden; wasps find it very attractive and frequently nest in strands of ivy
  • Cover all windows with fly screens
  • Keep yards tidy and remove any leaf litter from gardens
  • Do not drink out of cans or bottles - use a straw or glass receptacle
  • Do not leave fallen fruit or food scraps lying around your yard

Destroying European Wasp nests

On your property: Please contact a professional pest controller or head to the Better Health Channel for further information.

On your neighbour's land: Speak to your neighbour yourself.

On the Council's land: If the wast nest is on a nature strip or in a park, call the Council's Customer Service on (03) 5573 0444 to report the nest location.

Mosquitos

Mosquitoes are vectors of diseases such as Ross River Virus, Barmah Forest Virus, Murray Valley Encephalitis, Dengue and Malaria.

These diseases can make people ill and in severe cases, can even cause death. Mosquitoes transmit diseases through sucking the blood of animals and humans. You can only catch mosquito borne diseases from the bite of an infected mosquito.

Not all mosquitos carry diseases and more often are just a nuisance.

For more information visit the Department of Health Human Services website.

Protect Yourself from Mosquitos

  • Attach insect screens to the windows and doors of your house to allow air in and keep mosquitoes out
  • Avoid outside areas at dawn and dusk
  • Use recommended repellents
  • Wear loose fitting clothing which covers arms and legs
  • Use mosquito coils and repellents to discourage mosquitoes

Advice on how to avoid mosquito bites and choosing a mosquito repellent, check out the Better Health Channel website.

Protect your Property from Mosquitos

  • Dispose of all tins, tyres and other rubbish containers that may hold water
  • Put sand around bases of pot plants to absorb excess water in the dish
  • Keep swimming pools chlorinated, salted or empty them completely when not in use for considerable periods
  • Empty children’s wading pools regularly
  • Overturn boats and dinghies or remove the drain plug so they do not hold water
  • Empty flower vases, pot plants and other receptacles that hold water at least once a week
  • Drill holes in tyres used for swings, playgrounds and garden surrounds to allow water to drain
  • Change bird baths and pets’ drinking water at least once a week
  • Prevent leaking taps which can maintain semi-permanent pools
  • Flush disused outside toilets once a week
  • Keep fish ponds stocked with fish
  • Remove weeds and grass from drains to enable them to drain freely
  • Keep roof guttering in good repair and regularly remove leaves and debris so that pools of water do not form
  • Keep lawns and gardens well maintained so that you are not providing shelter for adult mosquitos
  • Prune trees and shrubs to a height to allow wind to flow
  • Use residual sprays to kill and deter adult mosquitos, follow instructions
  • Installing closely fitting removable insect proof screens on rainwater tanks inlets and overflows.
  • Sealing cracks in Septic tank lids
  • Repairing or replacing broken or missing septic tank and distribution pits lids 

Department of Health and Humans services factsheet: Mosquito control around the home

 

Rats and Mice

Rats and mice usually will not inhabit an area unless there is a food source available.
 
Rodents are most likely to invade human habitation when surrounding paddocks or grasslands are harvested or when the natural seed food source runs out in autumn. The coming colder months also drive them indoors for shelter and warmth.

 

Rodent proofing tips

To make sure rats and mice are not attracted to your garden:

  • Cover compost heaps with garden lime and only compost the correct material
  • Do not leave pet food out
  • Keep chicken coops and bird aviaries clean
  • Store pet food in vermin proof containers
  • Don’t feed wildlife or other native animals
  • Pick up fallen nuts from your trees
  • Keep the grass short and the yard tidy with a maintained area around the house
  • Check retaining and rock walls are not harbouring rodents
  • Trim trees away from rooflines to limit rodent access
  • Allow natural predators to keep rodent numbers down

Inside the house rodents are drawn to food. Make sure you:

  • Store food and leftovers in sealed containers
  • Keep your cupboard doors closed
  • Use weather strips on external doors to seal gaps
  • Repair any breakage in wall linings and roof cavities immediately
  • Place metal gauze over external building pipes to limit access to your house

Disposal methods for rats and mice

The two main ways of removing rats or mice are poisonous baits and traps. These can be purchased from hardware stores and farm suppliers.

Poisonous bait

Rodents will not take bait unless the alternative food sources are removed. A slow acting bait in which the rodents do not realise what is killing them is most effective. Keep laying the bait until it is stopped being taken.

Baits must never be easily accessed by children, pets or wildlife. Make sure you follow safety instructions on the packet.
Do not poison in roof cavities as this encourages them to seek refuge in the roof and they may die there as a result. Warfarin based baits create high thirst in dying animals. They often move towards a water supply when dying (eg. a swimming pool).

Traps

If using traps it is advisable to secure the trap so that it is not dragged away by animals to an inaccessible position. The trap can be made more sensitive by enlarging the trigger with a piece of cardboard. Mutton fat and peanut butter work much better than cheese as bait and is harder to remove from the trap.